For his first foray into couture, Jonathan Anderson drew inspiration from a wunderkammer – a cabinet of curiosities gathering exceptional pieces and natural wonders. Like an evolving system, haute couture is a laboratory of ideas where knowledge and craft exist and are preserved thanks to creation.
Symbolized in a flower-covered ceiling, the parallel world of haute couture is where nature and artifice meet, where the old welcomes the new, where the micro is transformed into the macro. The garden theme evokes a creative lineage between two of the Maison’s Creative Directors. Bunches of cyclamen given to Jonathan Anderson by John Galliano become a poetic baton, reappearing throughout the collection. The artisan’s masterful handwork brings flowers to life in silk, or renders them as delicately embroidered miniatures.
Dresses draped gently around the body and swirling corollas spawn a new grammar of forms. Knitwear adopts the language of haute couture, expressing the joy of experimentation. Tops balloon, veiled in net, while chiffon and organza are layered like feathers. Hand-painted orchids appear on ear jewels and shoes are delicately luxurious as each silhouette reinvents the blooming of femininity. Bags are conceived as full-fledged couture creations, balancing heritage, inspirations from nature and sculpture. Rendered in rare 18th century French fabrics, they are embellished with ornamental stones or colorful lacquer, each expressing the unique artistry of the Ateliers Dior. The final bridal look featured a stunningly sublime cascade of immaculate white flowers for a poetic crescendo.
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